by Judith Kraker
Surface: Oval Plaque with Removable Inset (20 x 14)
Paints: Tray: Sanding Sealer # 772
Sterling Blue – basecoat of Rim # 441
Glazing Medium #693
Midnight Blue for Distressing Rim # 964
Warm White – Inset # 649
Design: Dioxazine Purple # 463 Sunflower #432
Yellow Ochre #917 Midnight #964
Berry Wine #434 French Blue #639
Shamrock green #926 Sterling Blue # 441
Butter Pecan #939 Wicker White #901
Brushes: Sponge brush to base coat rim
#16, #12 & #10 Flat, Script Liner
#1171 (set of 3), #1171 #8 & #10 Flats. #1204 #16
Krylon Crystal Clear
Plaque – Surface Preparations:
1. Spray rim and inset with sanding sealer and let dry. Sand well and wipe with tack cloth.
2. Paint rim with Sterling blue. Let dry and ‘sand’ with a brown paper bag that has no printing on it. For “distress” marks, use Midnight blue, just picking up small amounts on the tip of a sponge brush and very lightly run around the rim, just touching here and there. Don’t get it too dark or too many lines. You want it to look like distressed rough wood. After thoroughly dry, spray with Krylon Crystal Clear.
3. Basecoat inset with Wicker White. When dry, sand with brown paper bag.
4. Mix a light green (Shamrock & Warm White) & a light blue mixture (Sterling & Warm White). Using Glazing Medium, dipping a soft cloth (or a scruffy brush) in the glaze medium (use a lot of medium compared to color) and then the light blue mix and lightly glaze the outer edge only under the design area, going about 1/3 of the way into the design area. Next, using the lighter green mix, glaze the rest of the portion that will be behind the design area. Blend the two areas together to form a gradual color change. You want a faint bluish/green background, fading out to white. When dry, sand with brown paper bag so area is smooth and paint will flow easily. If necessary, spray with Krylon Crystal Clear to get a smooth surface.
1. If you can free hand this design – great! If not, VERY lightly trace pattern onto inset, making sure it is centered correctly. You will NOT be able to erase these lines if you trace so be sure you can fully cover them with paint.
Vines – Curls:
1. Using Shamrock green and your script liner, make the paint an inky consistency. Carefully paint the vines / curls in the design. Be sure they go down far enough into the design.
Mix a bluish green teal using Shamrock and Sterling Blue (Ratio 1:1) for the center of the leaves.
Using # 10 or #12 flat brush, multi-load with Shamrock green and your mixture. On some leaves also pick up some wicker white on the light side (center of leaves). Place the leaves according to the pattern – doing the normal “wiggle” leaf with the exception of the end. DO NOT come off to a point. Instead, come off on a rounded end. Pansy leaves are NOT pointed – but round on the ends. For the smaller leaves, use a #8 flat brush. Do all the leaves now.
1. These are constructed using the ‘shell’ stroke. There are a total of 5 or 6 petals for one flower – 2 shells for the back petals, 2 shells for the middle petals, and either 1 big or 2 smaller shells for the foreground petal.
Two Shells make up the back leaves, which are mostly the predominate color with a corner of a blending color. Load your brush ¾ across with your main color, ¼ with the highlight color. Paint the 2 shells, starting at the same pivot point, overlapping those back 2 shells. See Worksheet
2. Next 2 shells: Either turn your brush colors around (opposite of first petals) or pick up another blending color with your main color. Create 2 more shells starting at the same pivot point only going down and out a bit from your first 2 shells. See Worksheet.
3. Last (2) shells: Using a variation of your color scheme (or turning your brush colors around again), starting at the same pivot point, paint a large shell almost all the way across the last 2 shells but going down and around. (From 8 o’clock to 4 o’clock). This can also be done with 2 shell strokes instead of 1 long one. Usually, this petal’s colors are a dark center with the lighter color to the outside of the stroke. See the worksheet.
4. Using Yellow Ochre with a touch of sunflower and your liner brush, lightly put a yellow center in the form of a triangle with the point to the top at your center pivot point where all the petals meet.
5. Using the lightest color, your liner brush, and inky paint, paint a line to define the 3rd set of shells. See Worksheet. You may want to ‘roll’ your brush a bit as you go over the top of the petal to make it appear as if the petals are turning down.
6. Using a contrast color (but one of the colors in your petals), and your liner brush, put streaks (accents) on the petals, pulling them out from the center. Use thinned paint, loaded very lightly on the brush. This is almost a ‘dry brush’ effect. Give the back petals a few streaks as well – which may be in a different color. See picture. Do all the pansies, overlapping some and using various colors. Play with the colors and use them to match your décor.
Fill in with a few 5-petal flowers where needed in the colors you used for the pansies. Also put a few buds out in the center of the design and make sure they have stems (done with green and liner brush) that attach them to the design. Be sure to dot the centers of the 5-Petal Flowers with the darker color, using the end of your brush.
Weeds / Vines:
Using Yellow Ochre, Butter Pecan, and Wicker White, multi-load a #10 flat brush. Using the ‘side’ of the brush, tap on the weeds being sure all the colors are seen.
Fill in design with a few ‘vines’ coming out of the design. This gives it balance and a realistic look. Don’t overdo this.
7. Sign your name!
Check to be sure all surfaces are dry and smooth. If rough, re-sand with a brown paper bag. Then seal with Krylon Crystal Clear spray. I gave it 2 coats, allowing it to dry thoroughly between coats.
Biography: Judith Kraker, OSCI
Judith Kraker began with Oil Tole painting in 1980 and soon switched to Oil Landscapes, taking classes at the University of Wisconsin – Fond du Lac campus, she studied under professional artist, Rockne Knuthe. “I took many classes on drawing, landscape art, and bird art. I was a member of the Fond du Lac Artists Association, where I showed in jurried shows. I sold numerous paintings. In 1994, I moved back to western Michigan and quit painting for some time. I took it up again about a good year ago after seeing Donna on our local PBS station. I signed up for the Chicago Certification in October, 2002, and am now a One-Stroke Certified Instructor. I am teaching One-Stroke at a Hobby Lobby in Jenison, MI, and team-teaching One-Stroke with another OSCI, Kathy Blough, at a Michaels in Grandville, MI. I also teach Oil Landscapes at a Michaels in Grand Rapids, MI. I am a member of the Society of Decorative Painters and hope to acquire the “Teacher of Decorative Arts” designation through their Teacher Development Program as well as become an “Elite” OSCI with Donna. I just submitted a proposal for doing a painted project for the Holland (MI) Area Arts Council who sponsor artists work – similar to the “Cows of Chicago” project.”
“By profession, I am a Credit Manager. To relieve stress, I paint! I also sew and design clothing (when I have time) as well as play the organ, piano or keyboard for church. My husband has learned that I’m not happy if I’m not ‘creating something beautiful’.”