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gladiolus drop leaf table
by Sherrie Colgain, Elite OSCI







GLADIOLUS DROP-LEAF TABLE
By Sherrie Colgain, Elite OSCI

SURFACE
-Wood Drop-Leaf Table, Available from Pine Crafts or Michael's

Palette
FolkArt Acrylic Paints
-901 Wicker White
-924 Thicket
-469 Dark Plum

FolkArt Artists' Pigment Color
-485 Raw Umber
-917 Yellow Ochre

FolkArt Metallic Paints
-580 Taupe

Brushes
FolkArt One Stroke™ Brushes
-8 Flat
-10 Flat
-16 Flat
-Script Liner

Additional Supplies
-FolkArt Sponge Painters Set
-868 Floating Medium
-Chaco Paper - Blue
-Tack Cloth
-Stylus or Pencil
-774 FolkArt Aerosol Finishes - Satin Lacquer
-772 FolkArt Aerosol Finishes - Sanding Sealer
-Sanding Paper
-Plastic wrap

Preparation
Spray the table with the sanding sealer and allow to dry. Then lightly sand the table. After sanding I remove any residue/dust with a tack cloth and then the table is ready to be painted. Basecoat with 1 - 2 coats of Wicker White. Be sure to allow each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next one. This does not need to be even because the faux finish will cover any flaws.

PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
(Refer to color worksheet throughout)

Faux Finish:
To create the faux finish you will apply paint with the sponge painter using two colors of paint on the sponge. Drag one side of your sponge into Wicker White and drag the other side of the sponge into Metallic Taupe.  Apply the paint in a pouncing motion making sure to turn your hand so that the sponge is not always in the same position. Pounce to blend the colors into a soft background working fast. While the paint is still wet apply plastic wrap to the top and lightly press the plastic wrap down. Then slowly pull the plastic wrap off of the table creating a texture in the faux finish.  Move on to the next section of your table and continue to paint in this manner until the entire table is covered in the faux finish.  Make sure to overlap the areas while you are working them. Set the table aside and allow it to dry.

Fern:
Load the #10 flat brush entirely in Thicket. Stand the brush on the chisel edge and press down. While applying pressure, drag the bristles and slowly release the pressure to allow the bristles to stand back up on the chisel edge. Paint the center top leaf first and drag down to create the stem. Then work from side to side to the bottom of the fern. If needed you may go back and re-stroke the top leaf and drag the stem back into your fern frond. This stroke is similar to a comma.

Now using chaco paper and your pattern trace the fern onto your table. Remember to turn the pattern over to create the fern turned in the opposite direction. Paint the fern on your table using the #10 flat brush loaded with Thicket paint.
Gladiolus:
Double load the #16 flat brush with Wicker White and Dark Plum by tipping one corner of your brush into Wicker White and the other corner into Dark Plum. In a separate place on your palette, stroke the brush back and forth to pack the paint into the bristles, tipping each corner on the brush into your paint puddles and then back to your loading track until the paint is loaded ¾ of the way up the bristles. With the white edge of your brush facing out stand the brush on the chisel edge, push and wiggle to tip of the petal and then push and wiggle back to the chisel edge. Paint petals 1 - 5 to create ¾ of a circle. This will require the petals to overlap slightly. When you paint petal #6 it will be on top in the front of your flower and will overlap petals 1 & 5. This creates one gladiolus. Paint a cluster of three gladioli on each drop edge of your table. The petals may overlap if needed.
Buds:
Double load the #10 flat brush with Wicker White and Dark Plum. To form a bud begin and end on a chisel edge, push up and over to from an “n”, 2nd stroke starts in same place as the first then push down and over to form a “u”. Layer the third stroke lower than the second and out a bit (another “u” stroke). Paint these on your table on each side of the glad clusters. Make sure to paint your buds alternating the direction each is facing.

Bud Stalk with Push Leaves:
Double load the #10 flat brush with Thicket and Raw Umber. Stand the brush on the chisel edge, then lean the bristles in the direction of the tip of the leaf, turn the brush ¼ of a turn towards the leaf tip and drag the bristles back up on the chisel edge to form the point on the end of the leaf. To complete the stalk of buds layer the small push leaves over the bases of the buds.  Your stalk should have a curve to it. Now paint some smaller leaves around your design and over the ferns and standing the brush on the chisel edge drag the stem into the leaf starting from the design and stopping in the middle of your leaf.

Big Push Leaves:
Double load the #16 flat brush with Thicket and Raw Umber. Stand the brush on the chisel edge, then lean the bristles in the direction of the tip of the leaf, turn the brush ¼ of a turn towards the tip of the leaf and drag the bristles back up on the chisel edge to form the point on the end of the leaf. Using the chisel edge of the brush drag the stem into the leaf starting from the design and stopping in the middle of your leaf. Let the Raw Umber edge of your brush lead into the leaf allowing the green to follow.

Small Push Leaves:
Double load the #10 flat brush with Thicket and Raw Umber, paint some smaller leaves around your design and over the ferns. These are painted the same way as the large leaves, but will be smaller because the brush is smaller. Do NOT clean your brush.

Shadow Leaves:
Use the dirty #10 flat brush to paint shadow leaves around your painted design. Wipe your #10 flat brush off on a paper towel and then clean your brush by loading it with floating medium. Work the floating medium into your brush and wipe the excess off into a pile on your palette. Use this dirty floating medium to paint shadow leaves around your design. This will create very transparent leaves when the floating medium dries. Don't forget to pull stems into these leaves also using the chisel edge of your brush.

Petal Veins:
Load the #8 flat brush in Dark Plum; stand the brush on the chisel edge and drag veins into each of your gladiolus petals.

Stamens:
Using the liner brush, thin Thicket with water to an inky consistency. Stroke from the center of the flower out to paint the stamens, approximately 5 of them. Add the tips to the stamens by loading the brush with Yellow Ochre and Thicket and just touching the top of each stamen to create a slash.
Using the liner brush and the thinned Thicket, using the tip of the bristles, paint your name and date your project.

Finish:
Use the #10 flat brush; paint the routed edge of the table and the plugs on the side with Metallic Taupe. This will take 2 coats for even coverage. Allow your table to dry overnight and then seal with FolkArt spray lacquer.




BIOGRAPHY

I have been doing some type of decorative painting for many years. I started out with oil painting landscapes (that old 49 cent brush class), then ceramics, back to oil canvas doing florals, acrylic painting, fabric dye painting and then batik painting. I joined the National Society of Decorative Painters (NSDP) and Florida Suncoast Decorative Artists in 1995 and started going to Extrav in Orlando, Florida.
I first met Donna Dewberry while wandering around Extrav in Orlando, before Plaid discovered her. I stood in line and got my free picture. The following year I signed up for a couple of Donna's classes at Extrav and I was hooked. Donna mentioned that she was thinking of doing a certification program and I was there. I was in that very first certification program in June 1997. I have been at every reunion or continuing education event since receiving my certification and I applied for the Elite package as soon as it was available. I achieved my Elite status in March 2001 at continuing education.

I currently teach at a shop every Saturday of the month. I teach One Stroke two day painting workshops bi-monthly. I even manage to squeeze in custom wall painting jobs in the evenings. I have a full time day job at Hillsborough Community College as an Audio-Visual Technician. I have been at the college for 21 years but my love is painting and teaching One Stroke. I look forward to One Stroking full time when I retire. I live in Valrico, Florida with my husband Barry who supports me wholeheartedly.


Sherrie Colgain, Elite OSCI, can be contacted at:
Address: 1511 Piney Branch Circle
Valrico, FL  33594-4908
Phone: (813) 654-7822
Email: hccfroggy@hotmail.com