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TIME-OUT CHAIR
By Denise Malone, O.S.C.I.
MATERIALS
SURFACE
Wood Time-Out Chair, available at Michaelís Craft Store
PALETTE
Folk Art Acrylic Colors
901 Wicker White
924 Thicket
467 Italian Sage
688 Light Fuchsia
438 Ballet Pink
660 Metallic Pure Gold
649 Warm White (AP)
BRUSHES
Folk-Art One Stroke brushes
#12 and #10 Flats
#2 Script Liner
SUPPLIES
Sandpaper
Plaidís Treasure Gold Classic #3010
Paper Doily
Crackle Medium
Embossed Pre-pasted Wallpaper (sample size available at Home Depot)
Folk-Art Floating Medium #868
Folk Art Glazing Medium #693
Folk-Art Crackle Medium #695
Folk-Art Matte Lacquer #773
Small Sea Sponge
Temporary Spray Adhesive
PREPARATION
Lightly clean surface and fill all holes with wood filler, if needed. Lightly sand surface. Base coat the seat of the chair and the two slats that make up the chair back with one coat of Warm White. Base coat the rest of the chair with two coats of Italian Sage. Lightly sand between coats, if necessary. Allow paint to dry thoroughly.
Faux Finishes:
Crackle finish: On the front and back legs (the back legs go all the way up the back of the chair) and the four rungs, apply a coat of crackle medium (use a thin coat for small cracks or a thick coat for larger cracks.) Allow this to air dry for a minimum of 20 minutes before applying the topcoat (the ideal time to topcoat is 2-4 hours after applying crackle medium.)
Brush on Ballet Pink (topcoat color) over the crackle medium, making sure there is plenty of paint on the brush. Do not overlap or re-stroke over the topcoat! It should immediately start to crackle. (You may also sponge on your topcoat if you prefer.) Allow the topcoat to dry before proceeding.
Embossed wallpaper faux:
(Close-Up Embossed Wallpaper Faux ó top slat)
(Close-Up Embossed Wallpaper Faux ó Slat under seat)
The embossed wallpaper faux is done on the top slat of the chair back and the slat directly under the front of the seat. Start by cutting out some raised designs from the wallpaper, trimming closely around the detail, using fine pointed scissors. Wet the back of the designs and place on the two slats (on my chair I chose to use a horizontal floral scroll under the seat and on the top slat of the chair back I used a large decorative circle in between 2 smaller circles.) Allow the glue to dry. Apply two coats of Italian Sage on the two slats the wallpaper designs were applied to, making sure to cover the raised designs. Allow the paint to dry.
Apply Treasure Gold Classic to your fingertip and rub it gently over the raised wallpaper designs. Buff the applied Treasure Gold with a soft cloth.
Paper Doily Faux:
(Paper doily faux completed on the seat of the chair with a One Stroke cabbage rose.)
Spray the back of the paper doily with temporary spray adhesive. Lay the doily, sticky side down, on the center of the seat. Take Italian Sage and mix it with an equal amount of glazing medium. Load this onto your sea sponge and sponge the seat of the chair (including sponging over the doily.)
Clean out your sponge and load it with Warm White. Sponge the Warm White over the Italian Sage (while it is still wet,) blending the colors a little as you go (but be sure not to over blend or cover the Italian Sage up completely), making sure to sponge over the doily.
Clean out your sponge and load it with a little Ballet Pink. Sponge the Ballet Pink on top of the Warm White and Italian Sage (while they are still wet) very lightly and sparsely. Let this dry for a few moments and then lift the doily off. After the paint has completely dried, load a #12 flat with Floating Medium and then side load into Thicket. With the Thicket side against the edge of the faux doily float around the outside of the doily for shading. If your shading is too light, repeat.
Sponge faux finish: The sponged faux finish will go on the back of the top slat of the chair back and both the front and back of the second slat. Take Italian Sage and mix it with an equal amount of glazing medium. Load this onto your sea sponge and sponge the slats you are fauxing.
Clean out your sponge and load it with Warm White. Sponge the Warm White over the Italian Sage, blending the colors a little as you go (but be sure not to over blend or cover the Italian Sage up completely.) Clean out your sponge and load it with a little Ballet Pink. Sponge the Ballet Pink on top of the warm white and Italian Sage very lightly and sparsely.
Gold Accents: Load a #12 flat with Metallic Pure Gold and paint two coats on the rim of the seat, the top of the back legs, and the tops and bottoms of the slats that make up the chair back. Clean out brush and load it with Floating Medium and then side load in Metallic Pure Gold. With the gold to the outer edge, float around the edges of the seat and the edges of both slats that make up the chair back for an antique look.
PAINTING INSTRUCTIONS
(Refer to color worksheet throughout)
(Close-Up of painting on second slat of chair back)
(Close-Up of painting on seat)
On the second slat of the chair back, paint rosebuds, filler flowers, One sStroke leaves and curlicues in opposite corners.
On the center of the doily on the seat paint a cabbage rose with both types of leaves, rosebuds, filler flowers and curlicues.
Rose: Double-load a #12 flat with Light Fuchsia and Wicker White. Work colors into brush. With Wicker White to the outer edge of the brush, paint five or six shell strokes to make the outer apron of the rose. Paint these petals by pushing on the bristles as you wiggle, pivoting on the White side until you form a shell shape. Make sure to start and end on the chisel edge of your brush.
Overlap each petal slightly at the top to get the proper rose shape. Paint your rosebud and then add your second row of shell-like petals. Re-stroke over your rosebud to clean it up, and then finish your rose by painting your comma strokes.
Leaves: Double-load a #12 flat with Thicket and Wicker White. Paint big wiggle leaves by pushing and wiggling (just like you did for the shell stroke) and sliding to the tip.
Rosebuds and Calyx: Double-load a #12 flat with the same colors as used in the rose. Start on the chisel edge and push up and over, making an upside-down "u" and ending on your chisel edge to make the back petal of the rosebud. Then, paint the next petal by painting a "u" in the opposite direction. Add another one of these strokes a little lower than the first.
Next, double-load a #12 flat with Thicket and Wicker White. Paint a calyx on both sides of rosebud using the chisel edge of your brush and leading with the white as you follow the shape of the rosebud. Then pull in a small center leaf, and pull a stem.
One Stroke Leaves: Double-load a #10 flat with Thicket and Wicker White. With Thicket to the outer edge, push, turn and slide to the chisel edge.
Filler Flowers: Double-load a #10 flat with Thicket and Wicker White. Start at the top of the flower and pull a small stroke down, leading with the Thicket. Overlap each layer slightly, making it a little wider as you get towards the bottom (donít go wider than three or four petals in a layer.)
Curlicues: Load a #2 script liner with inky Thicket. Using a very light touch on the very tip of the brush, paint curlicues.
FINISHING
Allow paint to dry thoroughly and finish with several light coats of Folk-Art Matte Lacquer.
BIOGRAPHY
Denise Malone lives in Newtown, PA with her husband, Mike and her daughter, Amanda. Denise, who has always enjoyed crafting, decided to purchase a kit when she saw Donna Dewberry on QVC. After attempting her first stroke, Denise was hooked! She was looking for a new career that would allow her more time at home with her new baby, and teaching One Stroke Painting gave her the freedom she wanted. Denise became an O.S.C.I in October, 2001 and currently teaches at Michaels in Langhorne, PA.
Denise Malone, O.S.C.I.
164 Cambridge Lane
Newtown, PA 18940
onestrokegoddess@yahoo.com